Accutane: Powerful drug derived from vitamin A that's used in the treatment of severe acne. The generic name is isotretinoin. If taken during pregnancy, it's highly likely to cause severe birth defects.
Acne: Skin condition characterized by plugging and inflammation that involves the hair follicles and sebaceous glands. It can take many forms including blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pus- tules, and nodules.
Acnegenic: Topical or oral products that produce or worsen acne lesions.
Acne vulgaris: Medical term for common acne.
Active ingredient: The chemical in a medication that does the work for which the product is designed.
Adult-onset acne: Overwhelmingly a condition of females, this type of acne turns up after the age of 18. It can crop up in a woman's 20s, 30s, or even later in life. It's sometimes referred to as female adult acne or post-adolescent acne.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): Fruit acids found in plants; con- stituents of many over-the-counter acne and cosmetic products, such as moisturizers and sunscreens. Also used in chemical peels.
Androgens: General term for hormones that have masculinizing features. Both males and females produce them. They cause the sebaceous gland to enlarge and produce more sebum, an impor- tant factor in the development of acne.
Antibiotic: Large category of drugs that has the ability to kill or inhibit the growth of bacteria.
Astringent: Solution that removes oil from the skin. Often used after a facial wash to remove any remaining traces of a cleanser.
Atrophy: A wasting away; a decrease in size of a tissue or body part.
Azelaic acid: Natural chemical produced by yeast. Used as a topi- cal agent to treat acne and rosacea. It can also be used to lighten the skin.
Basal layer: The lowermost layer of the epidermis. This layer pro- vides replacement cells that travel upward and replenish the skin with new cells.
Benzoyl peroxide: Topical antibacterial agent used to treat acne. Found in more over-the-counter and prescription products than any other topical agent.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs): A class of acids, including salicylic acid, that are used as exfoliants. They're found in many over-the- counter acne and cosmetic products, such as moisturizers and sunscreens. They're also used in chemical peels.
Blackhead: An open comedo. The dark acne lesion that consists of a plug of keratin and sebum. The dark color is due to a buildup of melanin.
Blue light therapy: Visible light treatment that works by killing the acne-producing bacteria, P. acnes, for a short period of time.
Chemical peel: Application of chemicals to the face in order to exfoliate the outer layer of skin cells.
Clindamycin: Topical antibiotic often used in the treatment of acne.
Closed comedo: See whitehead.
Collagen: Resilient protein that provides rigidity and strength to the dermis. Plays a major role in repairing damage to the skin and the development of all scars, including acne scars.
Comedo: Plug of keratin and sebum within a hair follicle. It can appear as a blackhead or a whitehead. The plural form is comedones.
Comedo extraction: A procedure performed with a round loop that's used to apply pressure to dislodge the contents of black- heads and whiteheads.
Comedogenic: Products that induce the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
Comedogenesis: Medical term for the process that forms white- heads and blackheads.
Comedolytic: Signifies that the product breaks up and inhibits comedo formation.
Comedonal acne: See non-inflammatory acne.
Contact dermatitis: Allergic reaction or irritant response to things that have touched your skin. Poison ivy and poison oak are classic examples.
Corticosteroid: Natural hormones produced in the adrenal glands. When used therapeutically, they are powerful anti-inflammatory drugs used to treat many types of inflammation.
Cyst: A fluid-filled mass that is usually benign. When someone has acne, the term cyst is often used interchangeably to mean nodule because of the resemblance of a nodular acne lesion to a cyst.
Depilatories: Creams, lotions, or powders that contain chemicals that split the chemical bonds in hair, breaking them off slightly below the surface of the skin.
Dermabrasion: Method to remove the skin's top layers and reduce acne scars using a rapidly rotating wheel or brush attached to a motorized handle to perform high-speed sanding. Newer technolo- gies, such as lasers, have largely supplanted this procedure.
Dermatitis: Irritation or inflammation of the skin. A general term that refers to an itchy red rash. It is sometimes called eczema.
Dermis: Layer of the skin just beneath the epidermis. Contains blood and lymphatic vessels, hair follicles, nerves, and glands. Also called the cutis.
Doxycycline: An oral tetracycline antibiotic used to treat acne and rosacea.
Eczema: See dermatitis.
Elastin fibers: Found in the dermis, these protein structures are able to coil and recoil like a spring. They give the skin its elasticity.
Electrolysis: A permanent way to remove hair. It destroys hairs with electrical or thermal energy.
Emollient: Topical applications that are used to correct dryness and scaling of the skin.
Endocrine system: System of ductless glands that regulates bodily functions via hormones secreted into the bloodstream. Includes the hypothalamus, pituitary gland, thyroid, adrenal glands, and gonads (ovaries and testes).
Endocrinopathy: A disease of endocrine glands. A medical term for a hormonal disorder.
Enzymes: Proteins that cause a chemical change in other sub- stances without being changed themselves.
Epidermis: Outer layer of the skin that lies upon the dermis.
Erector pilorum: See hair erector muscle.
Erythromycin: Oral and topical antibiotic that's often used in the treatment of acne.
Estrogen: Female hormone produced in the ovaries and adrenal glands.
Exfoliation: Removal of the outer layers of skin. It can be achieved with scrubs, glycolic and salicylic acids (chemical peels), as well as by microdermabrasion.
Fibroblasts: Cells that produce collagen.
Folliculitis: Inflammation of the hair follicles. It can be due to infections or eczema.
Hair canal: Part of the hair follicle through which sebum travels onto the hairs before it is carried out to the exterior of your skin.
Hair erector muscle (erector pilorum): Muscle connected to each hair follicle and the skin. When it contracts, it results in an erect hair and a goosebump on the skin.
Hair follicle: Tube-shaped covering that surrounds the part of the hair that is under the skin. Blockage of the follicle is produced by a follicular plug and is an important step in the formation of acne.
Heredity: Genetic transmission of a particular quality or trait from parent to offspring.
Hirsutism: Excessive growth of thick dark hair in locations where hair growth in women usually is minimal or absent. Usually occurs in androgen-stimulated locations, such as the face, chest, and around the nipples. May be a sign of polycystic ovary syndrome in women.
Hormones: The body's chemical messengers produced by the endocrine glands. They travel through the bloodstream and have specific effects on cells and organs in other parts of the body.
Hydroquinone: Chemical that's used to lighten (bleach) the skin.
Hyperpigmentation: Abnormal darkening of the skin that can follow inflammation; caused by higher amounts of melanin in a particular spot. It can also result from hormones and sun exposure.
Hypertrophic scar: Scars that bulge outward like hard lumps. The word hypertrophy means "enlargement" or "overgrowth."
Inflammation: A reaction of the skin to disease or injury.
Inflammatory acne: In this type of acne, papules or pustules, red or purple macules, and nodules, often termed "cysts," are pre- dominant. There are few, if any, comedones.
Intense pulsed light treatment (IPL): Devices similar to lasers but use a wider range of wavelengths as opposed to only a single beam of light. They employ a broad band of visible and near infrared wavelengths of light that block out other wavelengths. It is hoped that they may able to affect the growth and activity of the seba- ceous gland and help to treat acne.
iPLEDGE: An isotretinoin federal registry program geared toward reducing the number of birth defects, miscarriages, and abortions associated with isotretinoin. The registry keeps tabs on all isotretinoin prescriptions in the United States.
Isotretinoin: Chemical (generic) name for Accutane.
Keloid: Large scar whose size goes far beyond what would be expected from what seems to be a minor injury.
Keratin: Tough, fibrous protein that is inside the cells of the epi- dermis. It's also a constituent of hair and nails.
Keratinization: A process through which keratinocytes produce the protein keratin.
Keratinocytes: Make up the majority of the cells in the epidermis.
Keratosis pilaris: A condition of small, rough patches that tends to be mistaken for acne. It usually appears on the arms and some- times on the cheeks.
Laser: Lasers produce single (concentrated) bands of light that can penetrate into the dermis without injuring the epidermis. They're used to treat acne and its scars. When used to treat acne, the beams are adjusted to penetrate below the epidermis and travel into the dermis where they can zero in on hair follicles, seba- ceous glands, and the P. acnes bacteria.
Lesion: A mark in the skin. In dermatology, refers to a sore, growth, blister, or any other type of tissue damage caused by injury or disease.
Lipocytes: Fat cells.
Macule: Flat red, purple, or brown lesion that forms where a papule or pustule used to be. Remains visible for a while after an acne lesion has healed or is in the process of healing.
Melanin: Substance that gives the skin and hair its color and pro- tects us against UV radiation.
Melanocyte: Cell in the epidermis that produces melanin.
Menopause: End of menstruation. The stage in life when women no longer have periods.
Menstruation: The periodic flow of blood from the uterus. Irregular menses can indicate a hormonal imbalance that can worsen acne.
Metronidazole: An antibiotic and antiparasitic drug that's used topically to treat rosacea.
Microcomedo: First stage of comedo formation; a comedo so small that it can be seen only with a microscope.
Microdermabrasion: Technique that uses aluminum oxide crystals passing through a vacuum tube to exfoliate surface skin.
Minocycline: An oral tetracycline antibiotic used to treat acne and rosacea.
Nodule: A large and lumpy, pus-filled, frequently reddish bump that is lodged more deeply in the skin. They are inflammatory lesions that are sometimes referred to as cysts.
Noncomedogenic: Skin-care products that have been tested and proven not to clog pores and produce comedones.
Noncomedonal acne: See inflammatory acne.
Non-inflammatory acne: This category of acne is identified when a person's lesions are primarily whiteheads and blackheads. It is also called comedonal acne.
Ocular rosacea: Rosacea that involves the eyes.
Open comedo: See blackhead.
Oral contraceptives: Drugs used to help prevent an unwanted pregnancy. If you're female, your doctor may also prescribe them to fight acne by virtue of their anti-androgenic effects.
Oral therapy: Something that's taken by mouth such as a pill, cap- sule, or liquid.
Papule: Pimples (zits) that appear as small, firm, reddish bumps on the skin. They are inflammatory lesions.
Perimenopause: The transitional period from normal menstrual periods to no periods at all.
Perioral dermatitis: Also known as periorificial dermatitis, this con- dition is a rosacea-like skin eruption seen almost exclusively in young women.
Pilosebaceous unit: Grouping of the hair follicle and its attached sebaceous gland.
Polycystic ovary syndrome: PCOS is characterized by menstrual irregularities, hirsutism, acne, ovarian cysts, varying degrees of insulin resistance, and often, obesity.
Pomade acne: Type of acne is seen in African-Americans and other individuals who have tight curly hair and frequently use pomade (oils and greasy ointments) to style or improve their hair's manageability.
Pores: The openings of hair follicles onto the skin. Through them, sweat and sebum flow onto the skin.
Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: These dark spots are also called postinflammatory pigmentation, or PIP, for short. The origi- nal insult (and injury) that caused PIP can be a cut, a burn, a rash, or the after-effect from a healing acne lesion. The dark spots are limited to the sites of previous inflammation.
Prednisone: Synthetic corticosteroid that's used to treat inflam- matory conditions.
Progesterone: Female hormone produced by the ovaries after ovulation to prepare the uterus for fertilization.
Progestin: Synthetic progesterone.
Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes): These bacteria are an inte- gral part of producing the inflammatory lesions of acne. They live in the pilosebaceous glands of the skin.
Pseudofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps): Acnelike lesions that occur mainly on the beard area in men of African heritage. This condition is due to curly, ingrown hairs.
Pulse dye laser (PDL): This laser is "tuned" to a specific wavelength of light. It produces a bright light that is absorbed by the superficial blood vessels of the skin. The abnormal blood vessels are destroyed without damaging the surrounding skin. This laser has been used to successfully treat acne scars and rosacea telangiectasias.
Punch excision: Surgical technique that's sometimes used to cut out and reduce certain types of acne scars.
Pustule: A papule that contains pus. It's also known as a pus pimple. An inflammatory lesion.
Resorcinol: A weakly acidic organic chemical obtained from vari- ous resins; found in some topical agents used to treat acne.
Retinoids: Chemicals related to vitamin A. A mainstay in the treat- ment of both comedonal and inflammatory acne. The major retinoids are Retin-A, tretinoin, Tazorac, and Differin.
Retention hyperkeratosis: Excessive buildup of skin cells that, combined with sebum and trapped bacteria, creates a plug in hair follicles that results in acne lesions.
Rhinophyma: Enlarged nose that results from enlarged sebaceous glands and overgrowth of collagen, and is a feature of rosacea that's seen primarily in men.
Rosacea: Acnelike condition characterized by redness, papules, and sometimes pustules in the center one third of the face in cer- tain fair-complexioned adults. It's often mistaken for acne.
Salicylic acid: Ingredient found in many over-the-counter acne products. Helps to exfoliate the outer layers of the skin.
Sebaceous duct: Tiny tube that steers the sebum (and the dead skin cells it carries) from the sebaceous gland into the hair canal.
Sebaceous glands: Located in the dermis next to hair follicles, these are small, sack-shaped glands that release sebum onto the hair and moisturize the skin.
Sebum: Oily substance produced by sebaceous glands that coats the hair and skin. Composed of a rich blend of different lipids (fatty chemicals). Helps to keep the skin lubricated and protected. Clogs pores, helping to cause outbreaks of acne.
Sex hormone binding globulin: A protein in the blood that "mops up" free testosterone and prevents it from stimulating acne- producing oil glands to produce excess oil.
Spironolactone: An anti-androgen medication sometimes used in combination with oral contraceptives to treat acne in women.
Stratum corneum: Also known as the horny layer, it is the outer- most layer of the epidermis. It is comprised of dead skin cells that protect deeper cells from damage, infection, and from drying out.
Stratum spinosum: This is the middle ("spiny") layer of the epider- mis. These cells are always actively dividing.
Subcutaneous layer: Fatty layer of tissue located under the dermis.
Sulfacetamide: Anti-infective used topically to treat acne and rosacea. Often combined with sulfur.
Telangiectasias: Small, dilated blood vessels usually seen on the face. Also called broken blood vessels, or "spider veins."
Teratogenic: Drug that, if taken during pregnancy, is highly likely to cause severe birth defects.
Testosterone: An androgen and the main male hormone. Produced by the testes in men and by the ovaries in women.
Tetracycline: Oral antibiotic typically used to treat acne and rosacea.
Topical therapy: Something that's applied onto the skin, such as a cream, gel, or ointment.
Vehicle: Part of a product that holds the active ingredient. It's the base (ointment, gel, or cream) to which a medication is added.
Whitehead: Small, pearly white acne lesion that consists of a plug of keratin and sebum. Occurs when the comedo stays below the surface of the skin. Also called a closed comedo.
